Kilkenny Audiotour: Legenden en Kunstzinnigheid in de Tuinwijk

Look ahead for a sprawling grey stone castle with three massive round towers, tall battlements, and an enormous green lawn stretching out in front-if you see a fortress that looks like it could handle a dragon or two, you’ve found Kilkenny Castle! Alright, take a moment to appreciate this view-standing here, you’re right where power, intrigue, and a fair bit of ambition shaped the story of Kilkenny. If you squint, you might even spot a time-traveling knight looking for his charger. Let’s rewind to the twelfth century, when this ground hummed with activity. The very first castle here was more wood than stone, planted by Strongbow himself-Richard de Clare, a Norman with a very dramatic nickname-after he swooped in as part of the Norman invasion. Over the next century, this place was fortified with thick stone walls and corner towers, a formidable statement to all who dared take on its inhabitants. By 1260, the stone castle was completed, and you can see three of its original four towers still standing guard. Imagine the clang of armor and the kerfuffle of defenders in the Parade, which was once a huge defensive ditch. The castle changed hands-via a bit of family drama and royal intrigue-from the de Bohun family to the Butlers in 1391. Now, the Butlers may sound like a particularly well-dressed football team, but in fact, they were a dynasty with lands stretching across Ireland, England, Wales, and even as far as France. Under their stewardship, the castle became more than just a military stronghold. It was home to births, deaths, alliances…and even a bit of royal scandal. Lady Margaret Butler was born here, and she went on to become the grandmother of none other than Anne Boleyn-yes, that Anne Boleyn, ill-fated wife of King Henry VIII. Fast forward to the 1600s-the castle became an unlikely seat of revolution. The Butler in charge was loyal to King Charles I (he was even a Protestant, rare for his family), but his ancestral home was taken over by the Catholic rebels of Confederate Ireland. In these rooms, their secretive "Supreme Council" plotted and planned, their voices bouncing off thick stone walls even as cannons, and one very bad-tempered Oliver Cromwell, battered the east wall. The castle took a bruising, with one of its towers blown apart and later rebuilt in the style of a French château. Talk about a dramatic renovation project. The centuries rolled on and tides of fortune ebbed. By the 1800s, parts of the castle became quite shabby-“gentle decay” might be the polite phrase. Yet thanks to the wealthy Anne Wandesford, a new era of repairs began. Eventually, the Butlers even hosted a royal visit-King Edward VII dropped in, probably for the scones. But times grew tougher. The estate dwindled from tens of thousands of acres down to just the 95 you see today. By the early 1900s, the Butler’s income was shrinking fast; perhaps that’s why Lady Ormonde startled her fancy guests by announcing, “we are very poor” (though, let’s be honest, “poor” is relative when you live in a castle with seventeen servants). There was one more wave of drama during the Irish Civil War. The Ormondes, stoic as ever, watched the chaos from their bedroom above the great gate while machine guns rattled outside the door. After further struggles, the family finally sold the castle-furniture and all-and abandoned it for thirty years, while the walls gathered more dust than secrets. But don’t worry! In 1967, the people of Kilkenny bought the castle for the princely sum of £50. That’s right, £50! There was singing, a swanky handover party, and, for reasons only rock stars can explain, Mick Jagger and Marianne Faithfull showed up looking to “loon about.” Today, the castle and its enchanting gardens belong to the people. Its halls have seen Norman knights, rebel councils, and just maybe, a wandering ghost pondering if Mick Jagger ever found what he was looking for here. Take a wander-this castle’s stories are always looking for a new listener. Interested in knowing more about the butler gallery, excavations or the burials in the crypt

Look for a grand three-story Georgian mansion covered in leafy green ivy, with three tower-like bowed bays facing into beautiful manicured gardens just ahead of you. Imagine the 1780s, the era of powdered wigs, elegant dresses, and perhaps a little family drama-Butler House was built as a home for Lady Eleanor Butler, the wife of the 16th Earl of Ormonde, so she’d have a fancy place to live when her son took over the family’s title. Picture coaches clattering up the gravel drive, gossip drifting out the tall, graceful windows, while the carefully clipped garden hedges whispered secrets of noble life. Lady Eleanor’s daughter, Eleanor, would become one half of the famous Ladies of Llangollen, but Kilkenny was where her story began. In 1832, with cholera sweeping through town, the genteel drawing rooms became a lifesaving soup kitchen-talk about multi-tasking! Butler House saw even more excitement in the 1870s when Ireland’s archaeology buffs gathered inside to start what would become the Royal Society of Antiquaries. You can almost imagine the polite arguments echoing through those grand, well-preserved rooms! Today, you can book a stay here, waltz into a conference, or just stroll the restored gardens that back right onto Kilkenny Castle’s old stables-a place where luxury, history, and garden hedges all come together for a truly legendary address.

You’re looking for a tall, grey stone church with a chunky square tower and pointed turrets-just follow the spire rising above the old stone walls to spot St. Mary’s right in front of you! Welcome to St. Mary’s Church, where stories linger like shadows in the cool Kilkenny air. Imagine yourself whisked back to 1202, when Norman lords and merchants first built this grand church close to the castle. Back then, this would have been the proud beating heart of High Town, with market stalls outside and townsfolk bustling around-except, perhaps, those sneaking a biscuit during church! Picture the merchants every year, counting out their fourpence and halfpennies-the ‘price of admission’ to local heaven! The richer you were, the closer you could nap forever right inside the church. The Shee, Archer, and Rothe families-names that sound like they’d be great card players-all made this place their eternal home. Sometimes the council would hold meetings here too. Imagine the arguments echoing where people now browse museum displays-“We need more sheep in the square!” “No, fewer sheep, and more plays!” Yes, dramatic town plays took center stage here long before Netflix marathons. Over centuries, St. Mary’s swapped teams like a sports star during transfer season. It swung from Catholic to Protestant, back to Catholic, and, for a while, hosted High Mass with Archbishop Rinuccini during Kilkenny’s Confederation days. Even the bell-tower played musical chairs, starting as its own building and later marked only by a concrete patch in the churchyard. By 1957, the last prayer was said, and badminton rackets took over-yes, really! Even the Free Masons had a turn. It’s practically the most flexible building in Kilkenny. Come 2017, St. Mary’s got itself a new gig-as the Medieval Mile Museum. And when they prepared for the big museum re-launch, they found four mysterious female skeletons hiding in the gateway-don’t worry, a few of them are on display, just in case you want to say hello! The spire you see today was even used as Kilkenny’s top surveying spot, meaning it literally put the city on the map. So if you ever get lost in Kilkenny, just blame the guy who measured from this very church-and maybe sneak a quick prayer for directions. Now, onward to the next chapter of our adventure!

To spot Kyteler’s Inn, just look for a sturdy, old grey stone building with deep window sills and flower boxes blooming under bright blue-green windows-it’s the characterful spot with the hanging sign, right on your left as you walk down this medieval street. Now, let me whisk you back in time! Imagine the clatter of horse hooves and the smell of burning peat while you stand before one of Kilkenny’s oldest taverns. Parts of this very building go all the way back to the 13th century, and while only the lower story is truly medieval, that’s still older than most fairy tales! The Inn’s most mysterious resident was Dame Alice Kyteler, the first person in Ireland ever accused of witchcraft. They say secrets and spells once swirled around these very stones-makes ordering a pint feel a bit daring, doesn’t it? Since at least 1639, there’s been an inn here, though in the 1960s it got a makeover and a good splash of holy water for luck. Some locals weren’t too keen when they moved old staircases and fireplaces during the renovation, but today, descend those dark stairs and suddenly you’re in the 1300s! The ghosts might gossip, but the music and laughter have won Kyteler’s the title of best music bar in Ireland. Who knew witch hunts and good tunes made such a magical mix?

Take a good look at Grace’s Old Castle right in front of you! Imagine you’re standing here in the centre of Kilkenny, but close your eyes for a second and step back in time-hear the heavy doors creak as you enter the old stone fortress, boots clicking on the ancient flagstones. This place was built before 1210 by William le Gras, not just any local lad, but the Seneschal of Leinster and Governor of Kilkenny. The Graces held onto this castle as a private town residence for generations, until 1566 when James Grace handed it over to the state-who promptly turned it into a gaol. Yes, this place has seen more prisoners in striped uniforms than a cartoon bank robbery. By the late 1600s, the building had made the full jump from noble residence to County Gaol, and in 1792, it took on a new role as a courthouse. So, just picture this spot: prisoners in cells underneath, judges in curled wigs upstairs, and, just because Kilkenny likes to keep things lively, sometimes a theatre performance or election thrown in for good measure. The facade you see today was spruced up by architect William Robertson in 1824, but even after that facelift, this was far from a five-star facility; in fact, the prisoners might have even preferred the castle ghosts to their cells. Fast-forward past a timber-lined council chamber added in the 1920s, plenty of renovations, and the latest update in 2010, and it’s still busy delivering justice as a working courthouse. Oh, and just when you thought the secrets stopped, archaeologists uncovered medieval homes, burgage plots, a prison burial site, and even the remains of land drainage beneath your feet in 2008-talk about digging up the past!

To spot Rothe House, look straight ahead for a striking grey stone building with three grand arches at its base, tall gables, and windows adorned with flower boxes-it stands out proudly on the street, flanked by shops on either side. Welcome to Rothe House-the only place in all of Ireland where you can step inside a genuine merchant’s home from the late 1500s, right here in the bustling heart of Kilkenny! Imagine yourself stepping back more than 400 years, when this street was alive with merchants haggling, children laughing, and carts rattling over cobblestones. John Rothe Fitz-Piers, a clever merchant with more ambition than a pocketful of gold, built not one, not two, but three dazzling townhouses right here between 1594 and 1610. He didn’t just slap on a few extra rooms when his family grew-oh no, he went the deluxe route and built a new house each time. Talk about long-term planning! Each house had its own special courtyard, with the garden at the back stretching away-imagine apples ripening in the orchard and the herbal scent of rosemary drifting through the air. And that garden holds its own secret: a well sunk deep by Cistercian monks from Duiske Abbey, before Henry VIII kicked all the monks out. If you listen closely, maybe you can hear the echoes of their chanting from centuries ago. Life here was filled with ups and downs, and the Rothe family was right at the thick of it. They were the merchant bigwigs of Kilkenny-part of an elite club that ran the town like it was their personal board game. When England’s King Charles I lost his crown, Rothe House was snatched away because the family sided with the rebels. Rumor has it, one of the most important rebel meetings took place right under this roof. But just as you might expect, after all the drama and two kings later, the Rothes briefly got the house back-only to lose it again after the Battle of the Boyne. Say what you want about them, but the Rothes were never bored! The Rothe House you see here survived all that history, and today, it’s a museum bursting at the seams with treasures uncovered from all around Kilkenny. Want to see medieval pots, mysterious old coins, or hear tales of political plots and family feuds? You’ll find them inside. Take a moment to picture John Rothe himself striding beneath these arches, cloak billowing, with city gossip swirling around him. His coat-of-arms is still visible near the oriel window-if you look closely, you might find the dates marking each phase of this ambitious family project. This building is so special that it’s protected by law as a monument of national importance. It might not have the latest gadgets or Wi-Fi (unless they hid some in the dungeon!), but Rothe House is a champion of storytelling-each stone, each flower box, and every echo inside tells a tale about the merchants, rebels, and dreamers who built Kilkenny. Ready to peek into the past? Let’s keep moving, because Kilkenny’s stories are just getting started! If you're curious about the architecture, statutory status or the museum, the chat section below is the perfect place to seek clarification.

You’ve just arrived at one of Kilkenny’s most magical corners-and I’m not talking about wizards and bubbling cauldrons! You’re standing outside the humble home of Cartoon Saloon, a studio that’s spun tales so enchanting, it’s gotten the attention of Hollywood’s finest. Imagine the excited chatter of artists inside, their pencils racing across paper, as you take in the old but lively streets-a creative storm in the calm heart of Kilkenny. Cartoon Saloon set up shop right here in 1999, started by three fresh-faced dreamers: Tomm Moore, Nora Twomey, and Paul Young. At the time, they’d just left college, probably with ink still fresh on their hands. They didn’t have much-just their talent, some wild ideas, and enough caffeine to keep anyone dancing into the night. Their first big project, The Secret of Kells, didn’t get off the ground for years. Instead, they took any work they could-ads, website design, even CD ROMs! Now, that’s old-school technology. If you listen carefully, you might almost hear the frantic tapping of early computer keyboards, or the occasional whoop when an art file finally saved without crashing. They got their big break with a French production company and, after years of hustle and homework, finally released The Secret of Kells. The film’s magic? It drew from Irish history and art, mixing lush Celtic patterns with a story as vivid as the tapestries hanging in your wildest daydreams. And the world took notice. In 2009-bam!-Oscar nomination. Cue the confetti (and, probably, a lot of shouting and happy dancing behind these walls). But instead of selling out to big studios when the offers rolled in, they took a brave leap and chose independence, risking personal finances to keep their vision alive. I guess when you make movies about brave ancient monks and bold sea journeys, a little risk is all in a day’s work. But wait-the story gets wilder. From that tiny team of twelve, the studio grew to a bustling hive of 300 animators, all imagining wolves racing through Kilkenny’s woods and puffins flying over stormy coasts. Their films-Song of the Sea, The Breadwinner, and Wolfwalkers-earned more Oscar nominations and brought Irish folklore to audiences from Tokyo to Texas. And in case you have young ones (or are secretly a cartoon fan yourself), they also created fun TV series like Skunk Fu!, Puffin Rock, and Vikingskool. The laughter, meows, and wild cartoon soundtracks from the studio have surely echoed down these streets late into the night, especially during a deadline crunch. Even today, as they create stories for Netflix and design for the BBC and Disney, their roots in Kilkenny are strong. Maybe you’ll even spot a friendly animator heading out for a coffee, storyboards tucked under their arm. Cartoon Saloon is proof that world-class stories can grow from a little bit of Irish grit and a whole lot of imagination-and maybe just a dash of local magic. So, next time you watch an Oscar-nominated animated film, remember: it might just have begun right here, where art and dreams collide, and maybe, just maybe, where a brave puffin or a sly wolf once slipped down the lane.

To spot St Mary’s Cathedral, just look straight ahead for the tallest grey limestone building with pointy spires rising above everything around you-it’s impossible to miss on the city’s highest ground! Now, imagine yourself standing here in the 1850s, with the chisel and clatter of workers echoing as local limestone gets stacked up into this massive, awe-inspiring church. St Mary’s Cathedral rises in true Gothic style, with long tall windows and a sky-high steeple inspired by Gloucester Cathedral in England-you might say Kilkenny wanted its own taste of grand drama! The man who made all this happen was Bishop William Kinsella, who asked the famous architect William Deane Butler to create the plans. Building started in 1843 and took a whopping 14 years! When it finally opened in 1857, people came at dawn for a ceremony that lasted nearly three hours-no chance of dozing off in those pews! The bell up high was cast in Dublin by John Murphy, and if you listen closely, you can almost hear its echo. Make sure to step inside and see the Madonna sculpture by the Italian artist Giovanni Benzoni. With its soaring towers and local stone, St Mary’s is truly the heart of Kilkenny-you’ve reached the top, both literally and for your tour!