Tbilisi Audiotour: Een Audiotour

Ah, welcome to the marvelous Saint George's Church in Tbilisi! If you look to your right, you'll spot it easily: a striking building with a conical blue dome standing tall among the surrounding rooftops. The church’s brick structure and distinctive dome make it stand out in the picturesque landscape of Tbilisi. It's right there, nestled among the other charming buildings, kissed by the Georgian sun. Now, imagine stepping back into the 13th century. This isn't your average ancient church. The Saint George's Church, known in Armenian as Surb Gevorg, and in Georgian as sur′pgevork′i, is an Armenian cathedral that’s bursting with history. Legend has it, this church was founded way back in 1251, based on an inscription on a khachkar (that's a carved Armenian cross-stone) found over the western door of the church yard. But wait, that's not all - our beloved Armenian historians Hovsep Orbeli and Levon Melikset-Bek argue it was built by Prince Umek of Karin (Erzurum). According to these tales, Umek wasn't just any prince; he was a merchant who hit the jackpot and married into royalty. Talk about a rags-to-riches story! Then again, the Diocese of the Armenian Apostolic Church in Georgia believes that it might have been founded as early as 631 AD. So, who knows, it might have been serving the faithful since before your great-great-great-great (add a few more 'greats') grandfather was born. The church has had quite the adventure. It was captured by Persian forces in 1616, but later restored to the Armenian community in 1748. In 1795, it was burnt when Persians sacked Tbilisi, but that didn't stop it. Like a phoenix, it rose from the ashes with multiple restorations in the 17th century, then in 1832 and 1881. Its most recent facelift started in 2012, thanks to a fundraising effort that gathered around $3.5 million. Donors included some big names, and the church was reconsecrated in 2015 with a huge ceremony attended by VIPs. Inside, the church is adorned with frescoes and paintings, including works by the 18th-century artist Hovnatan Hovnatanian and early 20th-century painter Gevorg Bashinjaghian. The interior decorations tell stories of faith and history that have been cherished by generations of congregants. In the courtyard, you'll find the graves of notable figures like Sayat-Nova, a poet and musician celebrated in Georgian and Armenian heritage. The church's rich history is also marked by the resting places of various Russian generals of Armenian heritage. So, soak in the history, the culture, and the sheer resilience of Saint George's Church, Tbilisi's gem that has stood the test of time and trials, continuing to be a beacon of faith and community. Enjoy your time here, and don't forget to snap a few pictures!

Fantastic! You are now standing in front of Abanotubani, the ancient bath district of Tbilisi. To spot it, look for a cluster of dome-shaped roofs that appear to rise out of the ground. These domes are scattered amidst colorful flower beds and vibrant green shrubbery, giving off an old-world charm. The domed roofs are made of brick and naturally, they stand out due to their distinctly patterned tiles. Now, here’s a bit of fun history for you: Abanotubani, literally meaning "bath district," is famous for its sulphuric baths. Legend has it that King Vakhtang Gorgasali was out hunting with his falcon when the bird landed in a hot spring, leading to the discovery of these hot waters. He was so impressed that he decided to establish a new capital right here, setting the stage for the birth of Tbilisi. Talk about finding a hot spot! By the late 13th century, there were as many as 65 baths recorded in Tbilisi, and impressively, the baths were free for Muslim residents at the time. Standing here, you’re actually soaking in centuries of history, culture, and a generous sprinkle of legend. So, why not take a deep breath and imagine the soothing warmth of these ancient sulphur baths? Surely, the king’s falcon had an eye-and a feather-for luxury! Enjoy the rest of your tour!

Alright! As you're approaching stop number 8, Narikala, it will be on your right. Look for an impressive ancient fortress perched on a steep hill. You can't miss its formidable walls and towers that stretch across the green hillside. There's also a charming domed church within the walls, with a distinctive cross on top. Now, let's dive into the story of this cool landmark! Narikala (Georgian: ნარიყალა) is an ancient fortress overlooking Tbilisi, the capital of Georgia, and the Mtkvari (Kura) River. The fortress consists of two walled sections on a steep hill between the sulfur baths and the botanical gardens of Tbilisi. On the lower court, you’ll see the recently restored St. Nicholas Church. Built in the 1996-1997 period, it replaced the original 13th-century church that sadly went up in flames. The new church follows a "prescribed cross" type layout and boasts doors on three sides. Inside, the walls come alive with frescoes showing scenes from both the Bible and the history of Georgia. Legend has it that the fortress was constructed by King Vakhtang I Gorgasali of the ancient Kingdom of Iberia. Archaeological findings suggest that folks were hanging around the Tbilisi area as far back as the 4th millennium BC. The earliest written records dating to around the second half of the 4th century AD tell us that a fortress was built during the reign of King Varaz-Bakur (around 364). Towards the end of the 4th century, the fortress had a short stint under Persian control before being recaptured by the kings of Kartli by the mid-5th century. It was expanded by the Umayyads in the 7th century and King David the Builder (1089-1125). Then, the Mongols decided to rename it "Narin Qala," which means "Little Fortress". Most of what you see today comes from the 16th and 17th centuries after Rostom, the Safavid-appointed king of Kartli, fortified the surrounding areas. Parts of the fortress met their demise in an earthquake in 1827 and were subsequently demolished. So, as you stand here appreciating the grandeur and history of Narikala, remember that this fortress has seen empires rise and fall, legends unfold, and has stood the test of time-unlike a poorly built sandcastle! Enjoy exploring this bit of history!

As you approach the Kartlis Deda, also known as the "Mother of Kartvel" or "Mother of Georgians", look to your left. High on Sololaki Hill, you'll see a towering figure of a woman dressed in traditional Georgian attire. This 20-meter-tall statue is made of aluminium and stands proudly against a backdrop of lush greenery. Kartlis Deda was erected in 1958 to commemorate Tbilisi's 1500th anniversary and was designed by the renowned Georgian sculptor Elguja Amashukeli. He sure knew how to make a grand statement! The left hand of this striking figure holds a bowl of wine, extending a warm welcome to friends. Meanwhile, the right hand brandishes a sword, ready to defend against any foes. Talk about a warm welcome with a tough love edge! Elguja Amashukeli was awarded the Shota Rustaveli State Prize in 1966 for this masterpiece. Initially created with wood and later sheathed in aluminium in 1963 to protect it from the elements, the statue was replaced with a new version in 1997. So, awe at the majestic Kartlis Deda, a symbol of Tbilisi’s history, embodying hospitality and resilience. Cheers to friendship, but watch out if you’re trouble; Mother Kartvel here means business!

Alright, you're almost at stop number 10, the Holy Mother of God Church of Bethlehem! To help you spot it, look to your left-this church is known for its tall, cylindrical bell tower with slanted roof, which dominates the area. It's located at the foot of the Narikala Fortress, so you can use the fortress as an additional landmark to guide you. Now, let's dive into the history of this beautiful structure: The Holy Mother of God Church of Bethlehem, also known as the Upper Bethlehem Church, has an intriguing history that spans centuries and cultures. Originally built as an Armenian church in the 18th century on the site of an older chapel and finished by priest Gregory's descendants, it's now a Georgian Orthodox church! This transformation, however, makes it one of the storied edifices in Tbilisi. The building history reads almost like an epic novel-complete with bravery, loss, and discovery. Construction was significantly driven by Agha-Meliq Bebutyan, a participant in the Indian crusade of Nadir Shah, who didn't get to see the final masterpiece as he was killed in battle against the Turks. His son, Meliq Avetis, built the surrounding fence, adding to the fortress-like structure. Interestingly, during excavations in 1981, the basement of the original chapel was discovered inside the church, revealing more about its extensive past. It tells a tale of perseverance through times of conquest and conflict, including the brutal episode when the church treasures were hidden, leading to the murder of the Archpriest by Agha Mohammed Khan. In the 1990s, transformations continued as the ownership transferred to the Georgian Orthodox Church. Unfortunately, some original Armenian elements were removed during this phase, including frescoes and altarpieces. Yet, it's these layers of history that give this church such rich character. So, as you're standing here, think of it as a time machine in stone, its walls whispering tales from different eras and traditions. Isn't history cool?

Alright, look to your right and you'll spot an intriguing brick structure that might seem unassuming at first glance. What you're seeing is the ancient Atashgah, standing tall with its aged brick walls and a sleek, protective curved perspex roof that almost seems to hover above it. The Atashgah, also known as the Ateshgah, comes from the Persian word for "fire temple." It's a historic Zoroastrian fire temple, hailing from a time when Georgia was part of the Persian Empire back in the Sasanian era, which spanned from 224 to 651 AD. Quite a blast from the past, eh? This incredible gem is famously known as the "northernmost Zoroastrian fire-temple in the world." You’re about 100 meters east of the Holy Mother of God Church of Bethlehem, nestled on the Old Town slopes, northeast of the Mother Georgia statue. This brick building has been through a lot! Although camouflaged over the years, it has withstood the test of time to preserve its essence and remains one of the oldest religious buildings in Tbilisi. Its history is vast and dynamic. During the conflicts between the Persians and Turkish Muslims, Tbilisi fell under Turkish control, and this temple was temporarily converted into a mosque. The site's significance hasn't gone unnoticed; it's inscribed on Georgia’s list of Monuments of National Significance. In 2007, even the Norwegian government recognized its value and joined efforts to restore it. So, there you have it! A little slice of ancient history right here in Tbilisi. Now, on to our next adventure!

As you walk down 45-47 Leselidze Street, look out for a grand, red-brick building with an eclectic mix of architecture. This is the Great Synagogue of Tbilisi! You'll notice its large, arched windows that create a sense of welcoming grandeur. Right in front of you are detailed stairs leading up to the entrance, flanked by two lion sculptures that seem ready to pounce on any passerby who dares to misbehave! To the left, you’ll see a large menorah monument, adding to the serene and historical ambiance of the place. Now, let's dive into a fun tidbit about this landmark: The Great Synagogue, also known as the "synagogue of the people of Akhaltsikhe", certainly has a storied past! Georgian Jews from Akhaltsikhe migrated to Tbilisi in the late 19th century and decided to convert a house into a synagogue in 1877. But the original structure didn’t have the stamina to stand the test of time and was in a state of disrepair by the late 19th century. The government ordered its demolition, so the community stepped up and built a brand-new synagogue. Construction kicked off in 1904, and by 1911, the synagogue was stunning in its eclectic Moorish Revival and Romanesque Revival style. Inside, you'll find a mikveh, the ritual bath, which ties it to centuries of Jewish tradition. Also, Tbilisi is home to other synagogues, such as the Ashkenazi Synagogue and former synagogues that now serve as theaters or museums. Each of these places carries its own fascinating slice of history. Remember, the Great Synagogue isn't just an architectural marvel; it's a testament to the resilience and cultural richness of the Georgian Jewish community. Enjoy this historical gem and think of it as a piece of living history blending seamlessly with the vibrant modern-day Tbilisi! Ready for the next stop on our journey?

As you approach stop number 3, the Tbilisi Theological Seminary, look to your left. You'll notice a grand, stately building characterized by its classical architectural style. The building has a prominent façade with a row of large columns supporting a pediment above, giving it a very distinguished, almost temple-like appearance. The structure’s historical essence is palpable, making it easy to spot among modern surroundings. Now, let me fill you in on the backstory in a fun way. The Tbilisi Theological Academy and Seminary, also known by its Georgian and Russian names (bonus points if you can pronounce them!) originally opened way back in 1817, under the name Tiflis Theological Seminary. It operated under the watchful eye of the Russian Orthodox Church until 1919. The Russian Revolution and the subsequent invasion of Georgia caused it to close. The beautiful building you’re looking at was eventually repurposed in 1950 to become the Art Museum of Georgia. But here's the juicy part: one of the seminary’s most famous students was none other than Joseph Stalin - yes, *that* Stalin! He was admitted on a scholarship at the tender age of fourteen. The seminary's language of instruction was Russian, despite Stalin’s Georgian roots. He was a voracious reader, and though his academic performance was solid, he was expelled in 1899. The history of this seminary is sprinkled with interesting snippets like the poetry published anonymously by young Stalin in the local newspaper and the strict policy changes in the 1870s that frowned upon the use of the Georgian language in teaching. Even though this seminary saw the birth of some major Georgian nationalism, it was quite the melting pot of ideas and characters! So there you have it! A place rich in history and remarkable in architecture, and now, a precious part of Georgia’s storied past. As you continue your tour, remember: even the walls here have stories. Let's move on to our next stop!

Ah, you’ve made it to the final stop! Look to your left. You’ll spot a lively area with narrow winding streets, colorful balconies, and a diverse architectural mix that almost seems like it’s straight out of a history book. Yes, you’re looking at Old Tbilisi! Old Tbilisi (Georgian: ძველი თბილისი, dzveli t'bilisi) is like the city’s time capsule. Although folks have been calling it "Old Tbilisi" for ages, it only got its official designation as an administrative district in 2007 before being reshuffled in 2013. Despite these changes, locals and visitors alike still affectionately refer to this historic part of the city as "Old Tbilisi." This historic district, rich with eclectic architecture from the 5th to the 20th century, lies on both sides of the Kura River. You might notice the grand Mount Mtatsminda keeping watch over the area, along with the imposing Narikala fortress and the Kartlis Deda monument. Though much of the pre-19th century city was lost in a devastating Persian invasion in 1795, wandering through these streets, you’ll still find a vibrant blend of history and culture with churches, museums, sulphur bathhouses, and wooden houses with charming carved balconies. In the 19th century, this area was a melting pot of different ethnic neighborhoods-from the Armenian and Georgian quarters of Avlabari to the German Alexanderdorf and the Persian Quarter (Said-Abad). Old Tbilisi has long been a magnet for artists. One name you might hear is Giovanni Vepkhavadze, a celebrated painter of the district’s street scenes. In 2010, efforts to spruce up the old and damaged houses and cobbled streets kicked off to make this area even more inviting for tourists and visitors. So go ahead, dive into the past! Enjoy the winding streets and let the stories of Old Tbilisi enchant you. You've certainly earned it after this whirlwind tour!