리예카 오디오 투어: 지식, 신앙, 혁신의 메아리

You’ll spot the Church of St. Nicholas straight ahead by its pale yellow facade and elegant, square bell tower topped with a greenish dome, just above some modern shop signs at the street corner. Imagine it’s the late 1700s and the streets around you are buzzing not with car engines and shoppers, but with whispers and cautious excitement. Serbian Orthodox families, who fled tough times in the Ottoman Empire, have settled right here in Rijeka, hoping to make a new start. They come together to fund this church-brave, determined, and resourceful-while some local politicians try to stall them at every corner. Designed by Ignazio Hencke in 1787, it took three years of negotiations, hard work, and probably a few stubbed toes, before the Church of St. Nicholas finally opened its doors in 1790. Inside, treasures from far-off monasteries in Bosnia and Vojvodina find a safe haven, their golden icons glinting in candlelight. Over generations, the church becomes a heart for Rijeka’s Serbian community-a symbol of hope and belonging in a city that has always danced to its own beat. Even today, with Adidas and Fila across the street, St. Nicholas stands as a witness to stories of migration, faith, and a whole lot of perseverance (and maybe a little bit of stubbornness, too).

To spot the City Tower, look straight ahead for a tall, yellowish clock tower with a dome-shaped top and a grand arched passageway right in the middle of the lively street. Alright, welcome to one of Rijeka’s most iconic symbols - the City Tower, or as locals call it, “Gradski toranj.” As you stand here, imagine you’re a traveler a few centuries ago, just arriving in town, your footsteps echoing on the stone. This tower has watched over Rijeka’s main street, Korzo, for centuries, greeting everyone who entered the city. Back in the day, Rijeka was completely wrapped in defensive walls. To get inside, you’d cross a wooden bridge over a moat filled with water and squeeze through gates - either the “Sea Gate” or “Upper Gate.” Above the city entrance stood the original version of this tower. It was the meeting point, the place for lovebirds and city deals. The locals would always say, “Meet me under the clock!” Quite convenient, unless you’re late and have nowhere to hide. In the 17th century, the tower was raised higher and a clock was added - and so began the tradition of the “Clock Tower.” Meetings and secret plans were always happening by the big clock, which ticked faithfully through centuries, with only a few upgrades. In fact, in 1873 Rijeka bought a new clock mechanism fresh from an international exhibition in Vienna - and believe it or not, that very clock’s still ticking today. Take a good look above the arch and you’ll spot crests and busts. The best story? There’s a majestic double-headed eagle, given by Emperor Leopold I in 1659. You might wonder about the eagle’s heads - well, for a while after World War I, the poor bird lost one of them, courtesy of soldiers who wanted it to look “less Austrian, more Roman.” It was removed altogether after World War II, but don’t worry - in 2017, a brilliant new replica was mounted, wings spread, shining from the top once again. The new eagle is massive: about 270 kilos, its wings over 3 meters wide! Imagine seeing it lifted back into place, 30 meters up, overlooking the city. Over centuries, this spot has survived earthquakes, urban makeovers, and many rulers - even earning a snazzy new look in the 1890s. So, as people mill about and the clock quietly chimes, you’re standing where stories and secrets have intertwined for hundreds of years. If only the tower could talk, right? Or at least tell us how many people have used being “fashionably late” as an excuse under its clock!

Directly in front of you stands a tall, round, cream-colored building with a distinctive rotunda shape and a high drum supporting a circular lantern at the top; to spot it, just look for its grand arched doorway framed by gray stone columns and a crowd of visitors. Welcome to the Rijeka Cathedral, officially named the Cathedral of St. Vitus. Now, this isn’t your average church with the usual rectangular shape-no, no, here you’re looking at an architectural curveball: a Baroque rotunda! In this part of Europe, round churches are rare, so you’re already in special company. Imagine the scene back in the Middle Ages: in the spot where you’re standing, a small, single-nave church with a semicircular apse once greeted the city’s governors as they took their oaths, with a heavy wooden crucifix over the porch. That very crucifix survives, taking pride of place on the present main altar. But the plot thickens! In 1627, the Jesuits, with their love for art and grandeur, arrived in Rijeka like a whirlwind of style, armed with funds from the generous noblewoman Ursula von Thanhausen-the fairy godmother of Baroque buildings, if you will. The Jesuits thought the old church was a bit outdated, rather like wearing socks with sandals, so they designed a completely new place of worship. Plans were drawn up by Brother Giacomo Brianni from Modena, and on June 15th, 1638, the first stone was solemnly placed. Naturally, no epic building gets finished on schedule: works dragged on and plans were tweaked, complete with a higher dome to fit in a gallery just for Jesuit students-no noisy townsfolk allowed! Picture the hustle and bustle, construction dust swirling as Rijeka’s landscape changed. The original idea was for an elegant stone façade, but instead-the church wears its plaster face with pride today. Step inside (at least in your imagination!), and you’d see a dazzling, exuberant baroque interior, adorned with creamy stucco, swirling ornaments, and grand statues by artists from Gorizia and Friuli. Here, masters like Sebastiano Petruzzi, Pasquale Lazzarini, Luca Pacassi, and Antonio Michelazzi turned the space into a living, breathing canvas. On the altar dedicated to St. Joseph, Valentin Metzinger, a painter from Ljubljana, lovingly captured the saint with the baby Jesus. Over on the altar of St. Ignatius of Loyola, an anonymous Baroque genius worked their magic; and don’t miss the later additions-like a solemn statue of Our Lady of Sorrows and a vibrant painting of the Assumption of the Virgin. The church wasn’t just about spiritual matters. It was at the center of community drama, too. During the Napoleonic Wars, a cannonball smashed into the area outside the main portal. Today, it sits embedded in the stone, paired with a cheeky Latin inscription, memorializing the time when the English tried to help Rijeka chase out French forces. If you examine the inscription closely, you’ll notice a clever chronogram: some letters are written larger, spelling out the year of that remarkable strike. But let’s get to the really impressive treasures. Deep inside, the cathedral houses Rijeka’s most cherished relic: the "True Cross". This early Gothic wooden crucifix came all the way from Germany in the 1200s, first gracing the altar of the old medieval church, then surviving centuries to rest here among all the Baroque finery. The church has also witnessed its share of grand occasions. In 2003, Pope John Paul II paid a visit, celebrating mass here and filling the Baroque nave with the sound of voices-what a moment for Rijeka! And if you wander to the gallery, you’d find sacred treasures on exhibition: goldsmith’s work, rare books, and lots more, including a portrait of St. Francis Xavier, the famed patron saint of travelers-so perfect for someone wandering the streets of Rijeka, don’t you agree? Finally, a small but fun fact to impress your friends: the cathedral's rotunda was so unique, it landed a starring role on Croatia’s 100 kuna banknote. Even if you forget everything else, you can always say you visited the church that made it to the money! So-whether you’re marveling at the creamy Baroque stucco, grinning at that well-preserved cannonball, or pondering the sacred secrets inside, the Rijeka Cathedral stands as a symbol of faith, resilience, and a little Baroque flair-right here, in the heart of the city. For further insights on the interior and artistic heritage, recent years or the gallery, feel free to navigate to the chat section below and inquire.

You’ll spot early trailblazers like Minivac-think of it as the great-grandparent of home computers-plus an AMIGA 1000 that once played canvas to Andy Warhol’s digital experiments. The iconic Apple II and the steadfast IBM PC are here too, all lined up like the superheroes of silicon. Don’t miss the first European calculator-built in 1971 thanks to the pioneering Digitron factory right here in Croatia-still ticking away as a reminder of local ingenuity. If you’re wondering about the quirky name, “Peek” and “Poke” were essential commands in BASIC, a programming language that once made young coders feel like wizards. That playful spirit lives on, because PEEK&POKE isn’t just a museum-it’s a community hub for tech lovers, sparked to life by Rijeka’s own Association for Computer Enthusiasts. So, if your smartphone ever acts up, remember: every great gadget has its roots right here among these electronic legends!

Right in front of you, you’ll spot a grand pale-yellow building with arched windows and elegant decorative details, nestled among lush greenery-just look for the stately mansion with iron railings and an air of quiet authority. Now, let’s step into the story of the State Archives in Rijeka! Imagine standing here back in the late 19th century; the soft crunch of gravel beneath your shoes, the scent of exotic flowers drifting from the fantastic park surrounding this mansion, and the elegant whispers of history in the wind. This impressive villa was originally the residence of Archduke Joseph, a relative of the famous Emperor Franz Joseph I, who, after a royal family quarrel, chose Rijeka as his place of exile. Talk about family drama! Instead of sulking, he took this 17th-century patrician’s villa and gave it a grand facelift in 1895, following the designs of Rafael Culotti. Rijeka gained not just a residence but one of its most elegant palaces, brimming with that refined flair of historicism. Fast forward a few decades-the world outside was changing rapidly. Within these walls, however, an entirely new adventure was unfolding: the safeguarding of the region’s entire written memory! The Archives started their official mission here in 1926 as the Royal State Archives in Rijeka. Cue the parade of languages: Latin, Italian, Croatian, German, Hungarian-you name it! The scribes of history left their marks in everything from gothic and humanistic scripts to the curly delights of Glagolitic letters. Rijeka sat under shifting rule after shifting rule, each leaving behind courts, schools, armies, and more-generously donating their paperwork, whether they liked it or not! As the Second World War approached, the reach of the Archives expanded like a detective’s magnifying glass, peering into even more corners of the region-Kvarner, parts of Istria, Slovenian Karst, and bits and pieces annexed or liberated as borders changed. After 1945, Rijeka was reunited with Croatia, and the Archives found itself with new neighbors-stories from Cres, Lošinj, Krk, and the far reaches of eastern Istria started filling the shelves. In fact, the collection grew so fast, the staff probably had to dodge rolling scrolls and avalanche-prone paperwork more than once! But wait-it gets even busier! The institution’s name changed nearly as often as the weather: from Royal Archives to State Archives, to Historical Archive, to finally, the State Archives in Rijeka. This building, holding more than 7000 meters of documents in over 1000 collections, is practically bursting at the seams. Some documents are older than the city walls-the oldest from 1201-while others document marriages and town statutes dating back to the 1400s. If only paper could talk! Actually, it would probably whisper, “Please, no more boxes!” Today, you’ll find reading rooms, a lecture hall, and even a representative exhibition salon in what was once the palace salon. Want to guess what connects this archive to the industrial side of Rijeka? In 2000, the archives expanded into former factories, turning old leather workshops and machine plants into treasure vaults for historical documents. These are among the first examples in the city of industry reborn as culture-proof that in Rijeka, the past is never thrown away, just carefully filed! So, as you look up at this villa, try to imagine a staircase full of dignitaries, a park blooming with rare plants, and rooms echoing with the secrets of centuries. Here, every document, every faded page, is a puzzle piece of Kvarner, Gorski Kotar, Istria, and beyond-a reminder that history isn’t just kept here, it’s alive. And if you hear a distant sneeze inside, it’s probably just a centuries-old scribe shaking off the dust of time!

Right in front of you, you’ll spot a charming, stone-based building with a modern glass panel near the entry, surrounded by lush plants and blooming flowers-just let your nose follow the fresh scent on the breeze, and you’ll find yourself at the door of the Natural History Museum Rijeka. Welcome, explorer, to Rijeka’s very own cabinet of natural curiosities! Imagine yourself standing here not just in the peace of Nikola Host Park, but right at the heart of scientific adventure dating all the way back to 1876, when a passionate doctor named Josef Roman Lorenz dreamed up this museum and sent his ambitious plans off to the city’s mayor. It was a time when the world felt bigger, the Croatian coast teeming with secrets, and amateur collectors stacked their homes with minerals, fossils, and seashells from adventures near and far. Long before Instagram, Rijeka’s early naturalists couldn’t resist showing off their treasures. The craving for knowledge became so strong that, after World War II, a local nature enthusiast named Mario Rossi rallied his friends and neighbors to open the museum’s doors to the world, choosing this stately family villa once owned by Count Negroni as their headquarters. You might say the place was overflowing with more specimens than a magpie’s nest-so much so, that on the very first of May, 1946, curious visitors came flocking to see an aquarium and even a tiny zoo as part of the new museum! Imagine kids of every age pressing their noses to glass, hoping to spot something fishy. Fast-forward and the museum grew up, swapping its petting zoo and old glass jars for state-of-the-art science. Rijeka’s own regional nature museum, inspired by Vienna’s Natural History Museum, became a true temple of exploration. The 1960s brought a dash of drama: city leaders proclaimed it was time for more serious research, and soon museum staff were zipping around the region, collecting everything from fossilized seashells on Krk Island to rare sea sponges and sparkling local minerals. Fieldwork turned up ancient cave bears, rare fossils, and even new species from sunken caves and hidden meadows. If you step inside, today you’ll discover a treasure house with 26 different collections-over 90,000 items in all! From shimmering crystals to Adriatic sea creatures, from birds and mammals to creatures that crawl and slither, there’s always something waiting to surprise you. There’s even a multimedia aquarium where you can lose yourself watching sharks, and a hands-on workshop for kids who want to touch, mix, and play with the wonders of the natural world. Don’t miss the peaceful botanical garden outside, designed in 2005, or the collections at the museum’s “castle” in Gorski kotar, dedicated to the art of hunting and forest life. So before you move on, take in this intersection of history and nature-where every rock, shell, flower, and feather has a secret story, and the only thing missing from the next exhibit… might just be your own discovery.

To spot the Rijeka City Museum, just look for a bold, modern white building with large, boxy windows that stands tall beside leafy green trees-it's up the steps right in front of you. Now, let’s step into a whirlwind of Rijeka’s stories-right outside the Rijeka City Museum, a place that’s packed tighter with history than a suitcase before a big trip! Picture the spirit of the city, from sea spray to symphony, all preserved under this unassuming concrete cube by architect Neven Šegvić, purpose-built back in 1976 when disco was king and flared jeans ruled the streets. Believe it or not, the city museum you see today is something of a shape-shifter. Born in 1994, it burst onto the scene by transforming the old Museum of the People’s Revolution-now, instead of just focusing on political echoes, it’s all about Rijeka’s colorful life stories. It once lived in the shadowy old house of Count Laval Nugent, survived a move, and finally found its showcase sparkle in the grand Sugar Refinery Palace in 2020. Rijeka’s story, tucked into these walls, stretches from the 1700s right up until yesterday. I promise, it’s more dramatic than daytime TV. Step inside and you’ll find treasures of all kinds. In one glass case, a shiny music box might twinkle-listen close, maybe you’ll catch it playing a tune from decades ago. There’s a fine art collection with portraits of famous locals. Imagine artists hunched over their canvases, or townsfolk in their finest, holding as still as statues-don’t blink! And speaking of statues, there’s a whole section just for sculpture, stage costumes, and theatrical sketches. Flip through old documents and photographs from Rijeka’s bustling boulevards-wedding snapshots, dramatic events, and postcards from admirers far and wide. Here you’ll also find the most complete stamp collection this side of the Adriatic (move over, post office!), not to mention medals, wartime relics, and curious odds and ends that once decorated the homes of Rijeka’s proudest residents. The museum doesn’t shy from hard stories either-like the weapons and keepsakes from times of war, or haunting relics from prisons. Yet, there are lighter tales: theater posters, film reels, even clunky old photo equipment that once captured the heart of a city. So, as you gaze at this striking modernist block before you, remember: you’re not just standing before a building, but a giant scrapbook of Rijeka itself-full of heroics, heartbreak, music, revolutions, and everyday magic. Something tells me, if you listen closely, you might just hear the city whispering its secrets.

To find the Guvernerova palača u Rijeci, just look for a grand white stone building perched on a gentle rise, directly facing the port, with a bold façade lined with columns and topped by a Croatian flag. Pause for a moment and let your imagination wander - you’re standing in front of what was once the residence of Rijeka’s most powerful governors, the “main bosses” sent straight from Hungary! Back in the late 1800s, when top hats were all the rage and telegrams felt like magic, Count Batthyány decided the city needed a palace fit for a king-or at least a count-so he hired none other than Alajos Hauszmann, a famous architect from Budapest, to create this masterpiece. The building went up between 1892 and 1897, its style chosen for its high Renaissance elegance. Just picture those governors looking out these windows, making decisions that would shape Rijeka’s fate, their every move echoed by the marble-floored halls and sparkling salons, all crafted by talented local artists. Through times of calm and conflict, the palace saw it all-Austro-Hungarians, Napoleon’s troops, and even the May 1945 liberation. And now, instead of hush-hush political meetings, the halls echo with the footsteps of visitors to the Maritime and History Museum, which made the move here in 1955. Here, every stone and chandelier still whispers stories of Rijeka’s bold, unpredictable past!

You’ve arrived at the mysterious Rijeka Tunnel, a passageway with more secrets than an old spy novel-though the Italian army probably wished not so many people would find out about it! Dug out between 1939 and 1942, the tunnel stretches 350 meters under Rijeka’s Old Town, from St. Vitus Cathedral to Dolac Primary School. Imagine the tense air of World War II as Allied planes thundered overhead. Civilians would scramble into this tunnel, finding momentary safety underneath the ground. While today’s biggest danger might be tripping over a selfie stick, back then, survival meant everything. Take a look around and you’ll spot signs reading “Riservato all U.N.P.A.”-that’s Italian for “Reserved for the Anti-aircraft Corps.” It’s like a preserved label from a time when the city’s fate was anything but certain. For 75 years, this tunnel was sealed off, holding onto its mysteries in silence. But in 2017, it opened to the public again, letting visitors like you stroll where fear, hope, and courage once mingled. And, by the way, don’t worry about sneaking in-a €1.5 ticket will do the trick! Nowadays, Rijeka’s residents cross here for fun, not fear. The only thing you need to dodge are echoes of giggles, not air raids.

Straight ahead, look for a pale yellow church with tall arched windows and, just next to it, a sturdy stone bell tower famously leaning a bit to the side-it’s hard to miss the slanted “Crooked Tower” greeting you as part of the scene! You’re standing at the spot where centuries of Rijeka’s story come together in a single square! The Church of the Assumption of the Blessed Virgin Mary used to look quite different-in fact, its very first walls were built back when Romans were relaxing in steam baths on this same spot. Fast forward to the Middle Ages, and voilà: the church rises again from ancient ruins, its nave stretching taller thanks to a clever Zadar craftsman named Juraj in 1442. This church has seen trouble too-it took a beating when Venice’s armies stormed through in 1509 but, like Rijeka itself, bounced right back. The 1700s brought drama and elegance, with the powerful Orlando family building a grand new sanctuary (and their family tomb right in the middle, no less). Just imagine: beneath your feet, 75 graves lie under stone slabs now built into the church’s outside wall-each engraved with tales of local townsfolk. Inside, art lovers get a treat: the main altar is a masterpiece from Ljubljana, dotted with statues by a Padua sculptor, and surrounded by side chapels bursting with colorful marble and dazzling baroque decorations. In the 1930s, walls were painted with swirling motifs inspired by earlier decorations, filling the air with light and color. Outside, you can spot a real oddity: that bell tower has been leaning nearly half a meter since 1920! Locals call it the “Crooked Tower”-so don’t worry, you’re not seeing things. And look for a window shaped like a rose, crafted all the way back in 1516, now set in a 19th-century facade designed by the city’s own star architect. History, legends, and a little bit of architectural mischief-all in one place. Welcome to the heart of Rijeka!