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Rosario is the third-largest city in Argentina and has a habit of producing people who change things. Manuel Belgrano raised the Argentine flag for the first time here on the west bank of the Parana River on March 27, 1812, creating a national symbol from blue and white cloth. Ernesto Guevara was born here on June 14, 1928, in a house on Calle Entre Rios, though he grew up elsewhere and the revolution he eventually made was nowhere near Rosario. Lionel Messi was born here on June 24, 1987, in the Las Heras neighborhood, and the murals of him appear throughout the city with a frequency that makes the relationship clear: Rosario does not produce people quietly.

The Monumento Nacional a la Bandera, completed in 1957 on the exact spot where Belgrano first raised the flag, is an enormous neoclassical complex extending from the waterfront in three wings and containing a flame that burns continuously.

From the central tower you can see across the Parana to the low Mesopotamian countryside of Entre Rios province. The Parana riverfront park system south of the monument runs for kilometers through former port lands that have been converted into beaches, cycling paths, and weekend gathering places where the feria markets and outdoor bars fill up with a kind of organic enthusiasm that feels genuinely less managed than Buenos Aires.