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Ljubljana is small enough to cross on foot in twenty minutes and coherent enough to feel like it was designed by one mind, because in many respects it was. Jože Plecnik, the Slovenian architect who studied under Otto Wagner in Vienna, returned to his hometown in 1921 and spent nearly two decades reshaping it with bridges, fountains, lamp posts, market arcades, and a covered walkway along the Ljubljanica that turned a functional river into a promenade. The result is a city that feels simultaneously ancient and deliberately composed.

The 1895 earthquake that destroyed roughly a tenth of Ljubljana turned out to be the catalyst for the Vienna Secession streetscapes that make the old town so photogenic.

The Dragon Bridge, completed in 1901, placed four bronze dragons at its corners and gave the city a permanent symbol. Walk from the Triple Bridge toward the castle hill on a Saturday morning and the green market along the river will stop you repeatedly, with stalls selling honey from the Karst plateau, dried mushrooms, and the mild sheep's cheese called tolminc.