To spot the Our Lady of Africa Market, look for a large, peach-colored building with a grand arched entrance labeled “La Recova” and a tall clock tower topped with weather vanes.
Welcome to the vibrant heart of Santa Cruz de Tenerife, where the spirit of market life greets you with the buzz of conversation and the scent of fresh produce floating in the air. This is La Recova, officially the Mercado de Nuestra Señora de África, born in early 1944 with a flourish worthy of a movie opening. It all began thanks to General Ricardo Serrador Santés, whose wish for a grand market led him to commission architect José Enrique Marrero Regalado-the very same man who designed the island’s beloved Basílica de la Virgen de Candelaria. The result? A neocolonial marvel with hints of a Spanish plaza and a twist of Californian fortress, right here on Avenida de San Sebastián.
Picture it: three spacious patios await inside, with a central area meant to feel like a classic Spanish square, flanked by two side courtyards, all beneath the watchful clock tower built in the unique Mudéjar style. Legend has it that the grand inauguration drew crowds in their Sunday best as the captain general cut the symbolic ribbon and the local bishop gave his blessing. To make getting here an adventure, the architect José Blasco Robles built the Serrador Bridge, so visitors could cross the Santos ravine straight from the bustling Calle Castillo right into the market’s open arms.
Hidden within, just above the entryway, you'll spot a tiny statue of the Virgin of Africa, looking over the daily parade of customers. And directly across from her? Her Canarian counterpart, the Virgin of Candelaria, in miniature form-watch out, there may be more saints here than shoppers! In modern times, the market made it onto The Guardian’s list of the top ten best markets in the world-a little global fame to go with its fresh fish. In 2018, it bagged the city’s Gold Medal for its 75th anniversary, and in 2024, it was crowned Instagram’s most beloved market, so feel free to post your best avocado pics.
Take a moment to appreciate how old-world charm meets the lively movement of today. La Recova is as much about sights and smells as it is about stories-a marketplace where history lingers between the tomatoes.
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