Alright, take a look in front of you-it’s not every day you stand by the swirling excitement of one of Jaén’s best-loved Holy Week traditions: the Brotherhood of the Borriquilla! Picture this: it’s early Sunday morning, the air is cool but electric with anticipation, the streets are packed with people dressed in their best, palm fronds in hand. Suddenly, distant trumpets and the steady beat of drums begin to wind through the old lanes of Jaén. Time seems to slow as everyone waits for the procession that opens Semana Santa-the city’s breathtaking, week-long commemoration of Easter.
This brotherhood-the very one you see here-bears the grand official name that’s longer than a Spanish lunch: The Royal, Illustrious and Fervent Franciscan Brotherhood and Confraternity of Nazarenes of Our Father Jesus of Health Entering Jerusalem, Holy Mary of Peace, St. Peter, St. John, and St. James the Apostles. Let’s just call them the Borriquilla for your tongue’s sake!
Established in 1947, this brotherhood actually began life inside the Convent of the Barefooted Franciscan Nuns-although, between you and me, their shoes weren’t the only thing missing; at the start, it was all about faith, hope, and a touch of political influence, with founding members coming from teaching circles, youth organizations, and groups with links to Franco’s regime. Their first procession, back in 1950, must have felt like a leap into the unknown-Nazarenes marching with hearts pounding, the sun glinting off fresh tunics, the smell of wax and incense floating over the cobbles.
Of course, the Borriquilla has had a few “detours” in its story-sometimes dealing with official oversight, other times with the thrilling excitement of change. By 1964, the brotherhood shook off its official guardians and passed the baton to a brand new council. Two years later, a pivotal vote gave the brotherhood its own elected Junta. In 1976, Spanish royal flair touched the Borriquilla itself-when Prince Felipe of Asturias agreed to be the Honorary Governor. You could say, this is the only procession in Spain with a royal seal that isn’t a Spanish stamp!
Now, every Domingo de Ramos (Palm Sunday), the brotherhood sets out in a pageant of faith and artistry. Imagine 140 Nazarenes in white tunics, blue sashes, and capes, all swishing softly through the streets. Instead of candles, they carry palms, while children in Hebrew headscarves giggle and wriggle in the excitement.
But the star of the procession? It’s the dramatic wooden scene on the paso (the float): Jesús himself, riding-what else?-a little donkey, the “borriquilla,” just as he entered Jerusalem. Crafted from cedar by Antonio Dubé de Luque in 2002, the statue looks left, arms open, as if blessing the city crowds who greet him. Surrounding him: Hebrew children, apostles waving palms, and-if you squint-maybe even the odd dragon, tucked into a cartouche on the float, referencing Jaén’s own legends.
Let’s not forget María Santísima de la Paz, introduced in 1991. With a gentle, serene expression-just a hint of sadness beneath her emerald-green eyes-she glides beneath a burgundy canopy, silver dove soaring above as a sign of peace.
If you peek inside the Church of Belén and San Roque, the brotherhood’s home, you’ll see colorful stained glass and altars dedicated to their beloved images. The spirit of community here is strong-especially among the brotherhood’s youth group. They don’t just practice faith; they throw themselves into everything from singing carols at nursing homes to leading meetings and giving talks to other groups across the city.
Oh, and about that paso-it’s not just art, it’s a puzzle of craftsmanship. Between 2005 and 2018, every detail was lovingly brought to life; twisting columns, sculpted reliefs of saints, angels wrestling dragons, baskets lined with peacock-blue velvet so the costaleros-those strong men under the float-can keep marching. Lighting it all? No less than 46 flickering bulbs, glinting off gilded silver.
And if you catch yourself humming a tune, don’t worry-the brotherhood even has its own soundtrack! Local composers wrote hymns for Jesus entering Jerusalem, Maria Santísima de la Paz, and others, ringing out along the streets as the float sways by.
All this spectacle-and a community that’s weathered changes from dictatorship to democracy-is something you can feel right here, in the fresh nerves and timeless faith of Jaén every Holy Week. Next time you see a small donkey, just remember: it might be carrying the hopes of an entire city!
Ready to delve deeper into the iconography, steps or the headquarters? Join me in the chat section for an enriching discussion.
