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il-Knisja tal-Ġiswiti

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Look for a grand, honey-colored stone façade with tall, slightly uneven Baroque columns and decorative details towering right above the street on your right-the Church of the Jesuits is hard to miss!

Alright, take a deep breath and let your imagination whisk you back to Valletta in the late 1500s. Picture the bustling sounds of stonemasons chipping away, the sun beating down on freshly laid blocks, and the sharp scent of limestone in the air. You’re standing outside one of the city’s largest and oldest churches-a place that’s seen as much drama as a soap opera… but with better costumes! The foundations were laid here in 1593, as the Jesuit order dreamed up a complex so large it swallowed the whole city block. Not only were they building this impressive church, but right next door-the Collegium Melitense- was a university, alive with students’ chatter.

Nearly finished by 1609, the church was ready to stand the test of time… or so they thought. Just when everyone was about to breathe easy, disaster struck-a gunpowder factory nearby exploded in 1634, sending shockwaves that shattered windows and tumbled the newly completed façade of the church. Picture bricks and dust flying, and for a moment, even the bravest builder’s knees knocking together like castanets!

Stepping in to save the day (and the church), architect Francesco Buonamici arrived from Lucca, Italy. He decided, “If we’re rebuilding, let’s make it as grand as Rome!” That’s why the inside is full of Doric columns and chapels, echoing the famous Church of the Gesù. Although the façade looks unfinished, it’s a quirky reminder of the building’s dramatic past-like someone pausing halfway through tying their shoelaces.

This church has seen it all: from the Jesuits’ sudden expulsion in 1768-imagine it, priests packing their bags in a hurry-to becoming the official home for university graduation ceremonies, a place that’s filled with every emotion from academic nerves to proud tears. In fact, even today, Masters and Doctoral students celebrate their big moment right here, surrounded by art from the likes of Filippo Paladini and Mattia Preti. Now, as you stand in the sunlight, take in the hum of modern Valletta and picture all those stories echoing through the stones-because history here isn’t just in books; it’s in the very walls around you.

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