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Stop 9 of 16

Breite Straße 29

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To spot Breite Straße 29, look for a stately and tall Rococo townhouse with a striking broad gabled façade, standing right in the middle of the street-just above some modern shopfronts and crowned by an ornate stone crest at the very top.

Now, let’s step into a story that’s part music, part mystery, and all Lübeck. Imagine it’s the 18th century: you’re on Lübeck’s bustling Breite Straße, and this elegant house stands before you-its refined curves and decorative details gleaming in the sunlight, showing off that classic Rococo style. But hold on-if these walls could talk, they’d have a tale to tell that stretches back hundreds of years!

Long before boutique shops and passing cyclists, this plot traded hands among Lübeck’s VIP families-early owners included Segebode Crispin and not one, but two mayors named Pape. By the late Middle Ages, the address was like Lübeck’s own Monopoly square, with city councilmen swapping deeds: Constin, von Calven, Cornelius, Diman, Köhler… Everyone who was anyone in Lübeck seemed to want a turn at living here. And they weren’t just buying a house-they were investing in status. But the real magic truly began in the 1700s.

In 1762, the house was snapped up by Berend Lorenz Groot, a councilor and merchant whose family had a flair for both business and style. Picture Mr. Groot weighing anchor in the Baltic, then returning home to this proud façade. And speaking of facades-have a close look at the creamy portal, flanked by majestic Ionic pilasters, and crowned with a spectacular crest of stone. Right at the top, the Groot family coat of arms comes alive: three carnations and three acorns on leafy stalks. Why both? Well, there’s still a bit of debate-was it Hans or Berend Lorenz who commissioned the Rococo makeover? Some say even Hans had a hand, probably discussing it over dinner with his wife Dorothea Elisabeth-adding a splash of marital armory for style points.

Now, things weren’t always polished and pretty. The house survived rain, wars, and some questionable fashion choices. By the 19th century, parts of its sandstone cladding were weathered almost beyond recognition, patched with everything from white Weser sandstone to muddy-brown Postelwitzer, and even a rare green Gotland stone-imagine the local masons muttering as they tried to make it all match!

Try picturing the chaos in 1923, as restorers discovered sandstones of different textures and ages mingling like an awkward party. And speaking of parties-this building saw its share. Throughout the centuries, its grand halls housed well-to-do Lübeckers entertaining guests by candlelight, while its larder and cellars groaned with supplies for feasts. The mighty oak roof trusses above your head were here since the 1500s, and if you were to slip inside (don’t worry, we won’t), you’d find wall paintings from every era: echoes of family dramas, business deals, and even some musical jams.

Ah yes, music! You see, by the early 20th century, the house found a new rhythm. It became the Musikhaus Ernst Robert, the city’s go-to spot for anything from sheet music to grand pianos. Ernst Robert himself was something of Lübeck’s musical Santa, and after his passing, his stepson Erwin Lüddeke kept the store-and the music-alive. During World War II, fate gave this house a twist worthy of a symphony. When incendiary bombs rained down in 1942, two simply refused to explode. While the house immediately next door was gutted, Breite Straße 29 was left standing-charred and battered, yes, but miraculously alive. Later, when a fire in 1975 consumed the sumptuous interiors, Erwin and his architect Peter Kiefer painstakingly rebuilt them, mixing old charm with new hope.

Wander to the side and you might glimpse the rear wing’s glass-roofed courtyard, or maybe the sturdy old stable-home not to Beethoven’s piano, but to two honest horses, and a washing house complete with running water and a handy pump. For many years, music floated through these rooms, mixing with the hum of shoppers outside. A final twist: when shopkeepers and investors arrived in the 2000s, adding new layers to the house’s story, they peeled back layers of paint to reveal authentic brickwork: small, Dutch-style bricks rare for Lübeck, exposed in all their quirky elegance-reminding everyone that in this city, surprise and beauty aren’t just found in museums.

So, pause here for a moment and listen carefully. Hear the footsteps of Lübeck’s merchants, the laughter of party guests, the clatter of shopkeepers, and-if you really stretch your imagination-the distant sound of a piano. At Breite Straße 29, history isn’t just behind a door or under a layer of stone: it’s right here, breathing alongside the pulse of the present. And no, you don’t have to buy a piano to appreciate it! Shall we waltz on to our next stop?

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