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The Cathedral of the Assumption of the Virgin Mary

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To spot the Dubrovnik Cathedral, look for a grand stone building with a tall, dark dome rising above it, majestic Corinthian columns out front, and statues of saints standing watch along the balustrade above the main entrance.

Now, take a deep breath and stand tall-just as the Dubrovnik Cathedral does in front of you! Imagine right beneath your feet, layer upon layer of history: the whispers of ancient churches from the seventh, tenth, and eleventh centuries, and the hustle and bustle of craftsmen raising a proud Romanesque basilica, thanks in part to a royal payment from none other than England’s King Richard the Lionheart. He survived a shipwreck right off Lokrum Island in 1192, and in true dramatic fashion, he vowed to say “thank you” in the form of church funds! Talk about gratitude.

But this beautiful cathedral has had a few close calls. Fast forward to 1667, and picture the earth rumbling violently beneath Dubrovnik. The old cathedral is shattered by a powerful earthquake, leaving rubble where beauty once stood. Not to be deterred, the city’s Senate called in Andrea Bufalini, an architect from Italy, who got to work reimagining the church in lavish Baroque style. Yet, building a cathedral in those days was quite the group effort-it took decades, and a parade of talented Italian architects, local geniuses, and stonemasons whose chisels must have been as sharp as their wits.

You can thank friar Tommaso Napoli for the soaring cross vault overhead and those huge thermal windows that pour sunlight into the nave. Imagine the golden glow of the afternoon light filtering through, making everything inside bright and hopeful, even on the darkest days. The cathedral was finally completed in 1713 by Dubrovnik’s own Ilija Katičić.

The outside is a masterpiece-look at those Corinthian columns flanking the portal, the dramatic triangular gable, and the almost theatrical statues of Saint Blaise (the city’s patron saint) and Saint Joseph with child, guardians peering from their niches. Wonder what’s going on inside? Beyond the heavy doors you’d find a high nave and grand dome, with a three-part altar where none other than a work attributed to Titian gleams above: a stunning Assumption of the Virgin. Now that’s what I call a centerpiece!

If you feel like a little treasure hunting, the cathedral’s treasury is a trove of wonders pulled in from across the Mediterranean. Imagine racks upon racks of golden and jeweled reliquaries-over 182, in fact-including ornate arms, legs, and skulls of saints (yes, you heard that right!). And if you ever wanted to see a saint’s head topped like a Byzantine emperor’s crown, glittering with gems, well, you’re in the right place.

The cathedral has proven tough-surviving another earthquake in 1979, even standing tall after being hit by shells during the Siege of Dubrovnik in 1991, only to be carefully restored every time. So as you stand here, you’re looking at the work of centuries, love, survival, and a little bit of royal luck. Onward, adventurer-Dubrovnik’s stories are just getting started!

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