ズゴジェレツのオーディオツアー

Until 1945, Zgorzelec and the German city of Görlitz on the opposite bank of the Lusatian Neisse were a single city: Gorlitz, documented in 1071, prosperous enough from its position on the Via Regia trade road to build churches of considerable ambition and Renaissance houses of real elegance. When the Potsdam Agreement drew the Oder-Neisse line as the new Polish-German border, the river became the division and the western half remained German while the eastern bank became Polish. Almost all of the infrastructure, the historic churches, the Renaissance townhouses, the public institutions, had been built on the German side.

What Zgorzelec received was a largely residential zone of older German housing and a task of rebuilding an identity almost from scratch.

The Greek Civil War refugees who arrived in 1948, part of a large wave of communist-aligned Greeks expelled from their country, gave the city an unexpected Mediterranean layer that persists in the older community memories. Today the two cities function with close cross-border cooperation, sharing some municipal services and connected by restored bridges across the Neisse. Walking the river bank between them, you can look across at Görlitz's intact Baroque skyline and understand exactly what the river cost, and what patient rebuilding of a different kind of city has produced on this side.